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Stijn De Win


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Nepal, 20 April – 16 May 2007, Jomsom trekking, by Stijn De Win.



Arrival at Jomsom.

Itinerary – day accounts.


Thursday 19 April 2007

Brussels-Frankfurt-Doha with Brussels Airlines and Quatar Airways.

Friday 20 April

Doha-Kathmandu, Quatar Airways.

Arrival Kathmandu 15h30

Hotel Nature in Thamel

Saturday 21 April

Flight to Pokhara 11h45 with Buddha Air.

Hotel Green Tara in Pokhara lakeside.

After heavy rain in the afternoon it cleared in the evening with superb mountain views from the hotel roof.

Sunday 22 April

Flight nr B2A 0001 to Jomsom at 9h30 with airlines.

Hotel Himalayan Inn, Jomsom.

Walk in village in strong winds.

Strong winds from 9h00, mostly sunny but 1 hour of heavy rain in afternoon while at lodge.

                                        Impressive mountain views all over, the 1 above is Dhaulagiri at over 8000m high with it's glacier.

Monday 23 April

Walk around village and opposite side river.

Didn’t feel well so took plenty of rest for the remainder of the day.

Strong winds from 9h00 and sunny all day.

Tuesday 24 April

Start trekking in Jomsom 7h30, arrival at Kagbeni 11h30.  (2700 to 2800m and 9 km)

Explored beautiful Kagbeni village in the afternoon.

New Asia Trekker’s Home, clean room with attached bathroom and Nilgiri views for 200Rs (2,2 euro)  Delicious flambe vegetable sizzler and weird Tibetan rites to drive out ghosts.

Only working internet acces of the trek.

Sunny all day but strong winds from 9h00.

Wednesday 25 April

Start Kagbeni 6h15, Jharkot 10h45 (lunch), Muktinath 13h40.  (2800 to 3560m)

Walk to Muktinath Monastery and birding monastery grounds and surrounding.  Had a quick look at the famous eternal flame.

Hotel Caravan Muktinath.

All day sunny and no or little wind, morning room temperature in Kagbeni 14 degrees Celsius.

Thursday 26 April

Walk on stony slopes above Muktinath hotel area up to altitude of 3800m and with fine views of Nilgiri and Tilicho Peak, 5h45 till 8h45.

Walk to Gompa, lake and village below Muktinath, 9h15 till 10h30.

Start trekking Muktinath 11h10, Eklabati 14h10 (lunch), arrival Muktinath 16h55.

All day sun, walking with strong winds head on from above Eklabati.

Morning room temp. 14 degrees Celsius but frost on the ground at 3800m.

Friday 27 April

Start Jomsom 5h45, Marpha 8h00 (breakfast and a look around in this beautiful village), Tukuche 10h40 (lunch), start again Tukuche 12h05 and arrival Larjung 13h25

River Side Lodge in Larjung.

All day sunny and windy.  Sore knee after yesterdays downhill.

Saturday 28 April

Perfect Dhaulagiri sunrise views from hotel roof.

Start trekking 6h10, crossed the river flat to start with which produced Ibisbill to join later with the main trekking route again at the suspension bridge little before Kokhetante. (breakfast at 8h40)  Arrival Kalopani 11h00.

Walk in pine forest below and above Kalopani, 13h30 till 17h00.

Hotel Magic Mountain, of which room 101 (up and left) was truly magic, attached bathroom and superb views of Dhaulagiri incl. icefall, Nilgiri and Annapurna 1.  

All day sunny and strong winds, less windy in Kalopani.

Sunday 29 April

Walk in open pine forest above Kalopani (+160m), 6h35 till 9h45.

Start trekking 12h30, Ghasa 14h50.

Eagle Nest Guest House.

Meet with Nabil Nepali, my guide for tomorrows Pheasant quest.

All day sunny, little or no wind, morning room temp 14,5 C

Monday 30 April

Ghasa ; toughest walk of my life!  On the briefing yesterday Nabil said we would have to climb 300m, a 4 hour walk to see the pheasants.  Ok, not to hard I thought, taking 1 liter of water will be plenty!  His English isn’t that good however and this proved to be some misunderstanding. 

Started climbing the steep slopes at 4h30, first on a trail but it soon disappeared.  8h00 saw us 800 m higher (2840m) and just below the so called Black Forest (in fact a fairly small patch of open pine forest on a steep slope)  Got rewarded with superb views of Himalayan Monals and a male Cheer Pheasant.  Then climbing again, very steep, going on hands and feet in places!  Got to the pass above the Black Forest by 11h00, 1200m above Ghasa, drank my last drops of water.  Then a steep 400m descent on grassy slopes that was real dangerous in places, one misstep here could easily have made Cheer Pheasant the very last addition to my life list!  Up again a 100 altimeter and a 1 km struggle through dense bamboo, sunny too on this stretch and me thirsty.  Reached the Big Forest with welcome shade, some relatively flat trail and huge rhododendron trees, good to take up some courage again and on the descent through the forest back to Ghasa got Koklass Pheasant. Got back 16h30.

Did a 1200m ascent and descent in a days walk before (Pulchowki…) but this was many times harder because of the extreme steep terrain and no real trail to follow, the lack of enough water to drink wouldn’t have helped either.

All in all a success-full trip with 4 lifers and Nabil happy to get 20 USD. (cheap for me and a lot of money in Nepal)

Sun/clouds, dry all day.

Tuesday 1st May

Rest day in Ghasa with small walks to the pine forest in Ghasa village and near the Eagle Nest guest house.

Sunny all day.

Wednesday 2 May

Start 4h00 to Tragopan roost which we (with Nabil) reached 6h00, an hour late! (400m ascent) No fresh excrements found and there’s some dangerous sections on the trail, so opted to not try this again with a 3am start the following morning.  Checked some Cheer Pheasant site on the way back, got back to guest house 10h15.

Start trekking 13h15, arrival Dana 16h15.

New Annapurna hotel Dana.

Sunny but some rain in the evening.

Thursday 3 May

Start Dana 6h30, Tatopani 8h30 and Sikha 14h00.  (700m ascent)

Monalisa Hotel in Sikha.

Sunny and showers/cloudy from 13h30 onwards.

Friday 4 May

Start Sikha 7h30, Chitre at 11h00

Afternoon walk on trail towards Ghandrung.

New Dhaulagiri lodge, Chitre.  Met Belgische wafels op de menu!  Natuurlijk ni te vreten, was te verwachten, brrrrrrrwww.

Sunny/cloudy and showers after 16h00

Saturday 5 May

Walk on trail towards Ghandrung, 5h45 till 9h00.

Start trekking Chitre 11h20, Deurali (accommodation area above Ghorapani at the start of the trail up Poon Hill) at 13h00.

Hotel Tukuche Peak View had the only bad food on the entire trek. (behalve dan die Belgische wafels)  But bird-watching from room 19 here was excellent which made up for the food.  Here’s my room list ; pair Nepal Wren Babbler, Russet Sparrow, White-collared Blackbird, Rufous-vented Yuhina, Ashy-throated Warbler, Indian Blue Robin, Grey Wagtail, Pink-browed Rosefinch, Green-tailed Sunbird, Slaty-blue Flycatcher, Yellow-bellied Fantail, Thick-billed Crow, Common Cuckoo, Verditer Flycatcher, Red Crosbill, Chestnut-tailed Minla, Oriental Turtle Dove, Grey-crested Tit, Rufous-vented Tit, Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher , Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush, Grey Bushchat, Ultramarine Flycatcher, Western-crowned Leaf Warbler, Dark-sided Flycatcher, Lesser Cuckoo heard, 26 species.

Sun/clouds and between 15h and 16h a hailstorm.

Room 19, Tukuche Peak View, served as my hide for an afternoon.        The mountain view from the same room.


Sunday 6 May

5h05-10h15 walk up Poon hill, a 55 min. climb, 300m ascent.

Although this is ‘the’ famous Himalayan sunrise viewpoint of Nepal I can definitely tell you that the sun comes up pretty much from the wrong side.  It’s perfect only for Dhaulagiri (but better views from Larjung-Kalopani for this) with bad light conditions for the rest.  Nevertheless I’ve been very lucky here with all clear skies and a superb view at 9h00, which was after some birding, after all tourists left (noisy crowd at sunrise), just before the first clouds started rolling in and with the sun higher up thus better light.  Excellent mountain views all around and there’s been no clear morning in the next week or so!!!  Sunset must be much better here but to get a cloudless one you’ll need the luck of a lifetime, in April-May at least.

Afternoon room 19 bird-watching.

Sunny till noon, then clouds building and rain from 16h15.

Monday 7 May

Walk to Deurali via ridge and 2 hours return walk on trail beyond Deurali towards the mountain.  Returned to Ghorapani.  5h15 – 14h35

First all cloudy day of the trek but with no rain.

Tuesday 8 May

Start Ghorapani 4h20 via ridge to Deurali, 6h05.  Breakfast in Deurali and 7h20 start on trail to the mountain beyond Deurali.  Trail starts between the two Deurali lodges.  After the up and downs on the trail started the proper climb at 8h15, arrival out of forest and on the ridge 9h15 were I got Blood Pheasant and Himalayan Monal immediately.  Explored the mountain treeline area (3300-3400m) until 12h20 (first low clouds).  Back to Deurali 13h50.

Up here was the only area of the trek that still had all rhododendrons flowering.

Sun/clouds with little rain in afternoon.

Cleared up in evening and did little walk in forest near Deurali, nice Annapurna South views.

Green View lodge, Deurali.

Wednesday 9 May

5h00 – 8h30 and again 10h00 – 12h20 birding near Deurali, heard Satyr Tragopan.

Rain from 11h00 onwards.  Spend afternoon in lodge, waiting for the next morning.

Thursday 10 May

Decided to try for Tragopan an extra day after hearing them yesterday. (Just only found out yesterday that Tragopans are in the area, don’t know this is a known site)

4h30 till 9h30, again only heard Tragopan, also Koklass, lots of leeches!

Start trekking 10h20, Tarapani (Tadapani) 12h40 and lunch, Ghandrung at 16h00.

Hotel Sakura Ghandrung.

30 min. shower during lunch, cloudy in afternoon.

Friday 11 May

Start 8h10, Kimche at 10h00, arrival Naya Pul 14h15.

Taxi to Pokhara with heavy hail and mist on the way.  Pokhara at 16h30.

Saturday 12 May

5h55 – 13h00, Walk up to World Peace Pagoda through Queens Forest (Rani Bann) and back same way.  Surprise Spiny Babblers!

Afternoon relax and shopping in Pokhara.

Sunday 13 May

Paragliding off Sarangkot with Sunrise Paragliding.  Nice thermal on this south facing slope and the birds knew it too.  We were circling with 1 Red-headed Vulture, 1 Crested Serpent Eagle, 2 Egyptian Vultures, several Black Kites, Common Kestrel and a few Sparrowhawks.  This is exciting and different birding, raptors are not at all frightened by the gliders and a tandem flight makes that you have all the time for photos and enjoying the views and kick.


Monday 14 May

Morning flight to Kathmandu with Yeti Airlines.

Afternoon in Kathmandu.

Tuesday 15 May

Walk up to viewpoint through Nagarjung forest reserve.  It’s a 665m ascent, 5 km walk.  No views due to mist and clouds and few birds.

Wednesday 16 May

Kathmandu – DohaLondon with Quatar Airways.

LondonBrussels with British Airways.


Paragliding off Sarangkot in Pokhara with Egyptian Vulture and Crested Serpent Eagle photographed mid-air.

           On Poon Hill                                                                           Zoomed in on Dhaulagiri as seen from Poon Hill.


Info, notes, thoughts, tips…


-Ghasa Pheasants (+Deurali)

Don’t ever think this is going to be easy, you’d better be fit!  My first impression when arriving in Ghasa ; “whow that’s steep, am I going to have to climb this to see something?”

You will need the help of Nabin Nepali who knows the mountains and where the pheasants are.  He lives in the house next to Eagle Nest Guest House, you can ask about him there. Nabin’s fees for the day were ; ‘up to you’!  Gave him the amount he was listed for on Birdingpal and he seemed happy with it.  (

I got Cheer Pheasant and Himalayan Monal 800m above Ghasa below the Black Forest.  Also checked 2 spots for Cheer Pheasant closer to the village but these sites I think are unreliable to say the least.

Koklass is commonly heard early morning but very shy and hard to get a view of.

Nabin knows a roost for Satyr Tragopan, a 400m climb after having past some dangerous trail section above the river in the dark, set off 3am for this otherwise you will be late.  Best bet however will be to spend the night on the ridge above the Black Forest, a 1200m climb above Ghasa!  Steep, took me 6,5 hours.

Tragopans occur close to the Deurali lodges, but still, hard to see.

Blood Pheasant is too high up at Ghasa (way above the Black Forest) and can’t be done in a day, better to get it at Deurali. (Or start climbing again after having spent the night on the ridge.)  Poon Hill is a possible winter site but too low altitude in April-May for Blood Pheasant.

Also read Monday 30 April in day accounts above.



Usually all good with no hassles.  Only annoying thing for birders will be that Nepalis don’t rise early.  (No tourist will agree with me on this but for birders it’s late.)  Make sure you bring an extra alarm clock for your porter otherwise your first job in the morning will be to find out where he’s sleeping to go and wake him up.  My porter Bhim on this trek was pretty much OK for this but the one I got on my Langtang trek last year was a real pain.

Birding and carrying your own pack isn’t a good idea and at 20 USD a day I can’t see why you shouldn’t rent a porter.  Ask for one that can speak English and he will be your guide at the same time. 

Forget about an early breakfast, you’ll go hungry or not.  Most lodges don’t start serving breakfast before 7am.  Too late if dawn is at 5am.  Chocolates and biscuits might bring relief!

I’ve been the only guest in a lodge on many occasions, tourist arrivals in Nepal are at a low still despite problems with Maoists/safety gone.  Had to pay nothing for Maoists on this trek while on the Langtang trek last year I had to pay 1000 Rs.


-Road to heaven

Ghasa to Muktinath has a road (dirt track) that is used by an increasing number of motorbikes and the occasional tractor.  Not nice to go trekking along and together with the presence of electricity all over makes me decide that Langtang was a much more enjoyable trekking, it’s more authentic, 2 or 3 weeks with only solar power, no engines around, no telephones, no road-works…it has something.

To make matters worse they are busy building a road now from Ghasa to Beni that will open up the entire Kali Ghandaki valley for motorised vehicles.  Had to walk several (some dangerous) detours between Ghasa and Tatopani because of road-works.   They’re actually bringing down entire mountain slopes to build it and the monsoon will do the rest.  They’re facing some almost impossible sections however and with the means they have it will take at least another 10 (or 20, or never) years for completion.  Can’t see why they’re building it.  Why destroy your most important trekking area?  Hopefully nobody will be stupid enough to still go trekking Jomsom after the road has been completed.  Bye-bye lodges, porters, guides…good luck with begging in Kathmandu!!!  Oh, think they might dream of bringing in mass-tourism but that’s not gone work, not in Nepal!


No kidding, there’s about 50 people at the top of this man-                    A monastery at Muktinath with mighty mountains in the

made landslide trying to bring the mountain further down                       background. Pray!

in an attempt to build a road. Livestock is grazing right

above so the entire slope is likely to come down with the

next monsoon.


-Annapurna Conservation Area Project

Plastic bottle mania!  Telling tourists not to use plastic bottles seems to be the most important activity.  Now all non-bottle users think they’re green and clean and conserving the area. I’m not going to say bottles and waste aren’t a problem but they’re not going to spoil the area very much if you manage the waste a bit.  I wonder how many of these non-bottle users will see the only real problem up there.  Most will probably just think the landscape hasn’t changed for ages up in the Annapurna range.

Every single square metre above the tree-line in Nepal can best be compared with a logged rainforest I guess.  It takes ages (if ever) to recover from over-grassing, no area will get the time.  No wonder there’re no flowers or birds in the high country any more.  Scan whatever hillside with your binoculars, inclusive those that appear inaccessible and you will see livestock.

This is about very few poor people destroying enormous areas to scrape a living with grazing cheep, goats, yak, cows, horses.  If ACAP (and the rest of Nepal) were serious about conservation they should stop all grazing inside (so called) protected areas.  But that will affect people and can not be done in this world.

So, enjoy that mineral water if you want but please stay away from cheese, milk and so on!


Rani Bann Pokhara

-The quality of the forest in Pokhara (the Queens forest or Rani Bann) has detoriated seriously since my first visit there 12 years ago.  It starts to look like a plantation very much if you ask me, no undergrowth, dead trees or even branches any more.  No wonder if you see the number of locals gathering everything they can use in the forest.  Urgent protection needed!  Still good for some canopy-species like Blue-throated Bee-eater or Green Magpie.



    How many steps from Tatopani to              A Tragopan on the signboard, sure it is!                   'Full Art" as displayed in

 Poon Hill? It's an ascent of over 2000m.   The birds live in the forest less than 1 km away.                   Kagbeni village.


Trip list follows Birds of the Indian Subcontinent, Grimmett, Inskipp, Inskipp.


Chukar ; few Jomsom, Kagbeni, Muktinath

Black Francolin ; male seen Pokhara peace Pagoda, heard Pokhara airport, Dana to Sikha, below Ghandrung.

Common Quail ; heard in irrigated wheat fields Kagbeni

xHill Partridge ; calling male seen very well near Deurali, one briefly seen Deurali, pair seen

                          briefly near Chitre, commonly heard Ghasa and Deurali.

xBlood Pheasant ; 2 pairs seen superbly at treeline on trail up the mountain beyond Deurali,  

                           altitude = 3400m 

Satyr Tragopan ; 2 different birds were calling on both mornings (5 to 5.30 am and briefly

          again at 8 am) to the right of the trail towards Chitre, a 150m descent from the Deurali

          lodges, despite some serious effort (steep slopes!) only got to flush one once,

          untickable however.

xKoklass Pheasant ; 1 male seen flying through forest clearing above Ghasa in the Big

          Forest, several more heard Ghasa.  2 flushed near Deurali and commonly heard here.

xHimalayan Monal ; 2 pairs seen well below and next to Black Forest Ghasa, one pair at at Blood Pheasant

         spot, see above.  A male gliding past down the slope right underneath was a fantastic sight.

         Kalij Pheasant ; seen Ghasa

xCheer Pheasant ; a male seen very well both on the ground and in flight below the Black Forest at Ghasa.  

                            This is a 800m ascent from Eagle Nest guest house. 

Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker ; near Birethanti and PokharaQueensForest

Rufous-bellied Woodpecker ; female near Sikha

Darjeeling Woodpecker ; one Ghasa and Deurali

Grey-headed Woodpecker ; Chitre, Ghasa, Deurali, Pokhara and Kalopani.

Great Barbet ; common below 2500m

 Blue-throated Barbet ; Pokhara, Nagarjung, below Kimche

Coppersmith Barbet ; Pokhara

White-throated Kingfisher ; Pokhara and near Birethanti

Crested Kingfisher ; one in river between Kimche – Birethanti

Blue-bearded Bee-eater ; one Queens Forest Pokhara

Common Hawk Cuckoo ; commonly heard ‘brainfever’

Eurasian Cuckoo ; common

Oriental Cuckoo ; commonly heard, only 1 seen

xLesser Cuckoo ; Ghorapani – Deurali, several heard but only 1 seen briefly

Asian Koel ; Pokhara

Rose-ringed Parakeet ; few Pokhara

Himalayan Swiftlet ; fairly common

Common Swift ; few Jomsom, Khingar and Kalopani

House Swift ; common

Fork-tailed Swift ; fairly common

          A breeding colony on a rock face just below Ghandrung contained previous 2 species

          and Nepal House Martin.

Mountain Scops Owl ; heard Dana

Indian Scops Owl ; heard Pokhara

Tawny Owl ; heard Dana

Collared Owlet ; seen Kalopani and Deurali

Asian Barred Owlet ; 2 seen Queens Forest Pokhara

Rock Pigeon ; Jomsom – Muktinath (feral)

xHill Pigeon ; 1 Jharkot and 2 Muktinath

Speckled Wood Pigeon ; several Kalopani

Oriental Turtle Dove ; common

Spotted Dove

Eurasian Collared Dove ; 1 Kagbeni

Pompadour Green Pigeon ; near Birethanti

Yellow-footed Green Pigeon ; 2 Tatopani

White-breasted Waterhen ; Pokhara lake

Pintail Snipe ; one in stream, Muktinath monastery grounds, NOT a Solitary Snipe!

Common Sandpiper ; few Kali Gandaki river

Ibisbill ; 2, possibly 3 birds seen while crossing Kali Gandaki flat at Larjung

White-winged Tern ; one breeding plumage Pokhara lake

Black Kite

Lammergeier ; 2 Kalopani, 1 Ghasa, 3 Muktinath

Egyptian Vulture ; Sikha, Ghandrung, Pokhara

White-rumped Vulture ; up to 8 birds seen at World Peace Pagoda, Pokhara, also 2 at airport.

Himalayan Griffon ; common

Eurasian Griffon ; around 10 birds near Ghandrung

Cinereous Vulture ; 1 Sikha

Red-headed Vulture ; 3 Kimche, 1 at World Peace Pagoda Pokhara and probably same bird seen from

                            Damside, 1 seen straight below me in the same thermal while paragliding from Sarangkot, 


Crested Serpent Eagle ; several on trekking and Pokhara, incl. close up while paragliding!

Black Eagle ; near Chitre and Ghandrung

Besra ; a male seen well, perched in the pine wood at Ghasa village.

Eurasian Sparrowhawk ; few

Northern Goshawk ; Ghasa

Common Buzzard ; Ghasa

Golden Eagle ; an adult near Deurali

Bonelli’s Eagle ; 2 Kalopani, 1 near Kimche

Booted Eagle ; one Jharkot

Mountain Hawk Eagle ; Chitre, Ghorapani

Common Kestrel ; few

Peregrine Falcon ; pair near Tukuche, one above Deurali

Little Grebe ; Pokhara lake

Little Egret ; Pokhara

Cattle Egret ; Pokhara and Kathmandu

Indian Pond Heron ; Pokhara

Golden-fronted Leafbird ; Nagarjung forest (Kathmandu)

Long-tailed Shrike ; few Tatopani, Pokhara

Grey-backed Shrike ; common between Tukuche and Muktinath

Eurasian Jay ; only 2 seen near Chitre

Yellow-billed Blue Magpie ; few Deurali

Red-billed Blue Magpie ; Sikha-Chitre and Pokhara

Common Green Magpie ; one Queens Forest Pokhara

Rufous Treepie ; QueensForest and Pokhara lakeside

Grey Treepie ; fairly common on trek and Pokhara

Spotted Nutcracker ; 2 birds near Deurali, spp hemispila

Red-billed Chough ; Jomsom and up

Yellow-billed Chough ; Muktinath

House Crow

Large-billed Crow

Common Raven ; 2 Muktinath area

Eurasian Golden Oriole ; Sikha, Chitre

Maroon Oriole ; few Chitre

Large Cuckooshrike ; one Sarangkot

Black-winged Cuckooshrike ; near Sikha

Long-tailed Minivet ; Kalopani, Deurali, Chitre

Yellow-bellied Fantail ; Ghorapani area, Deurali

Black Drongo

Ashy Drongo

Bronzed Drongo ; QueensForest Pokhara only

Spangled Drongo ; near Birethanti, Pokhara

xBlue-capped Rock Thrush ; 3 males, 1 female Ghasa, male Ghasa to Dana, male Dana to   

                                          Tatopani, male Sikha to Chitre

Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush ; several on Poon Hill and near Deurali, 2 females near Banthanti

Blue Rock Thrush ; Jomsom and up

Blue Whistling Thrush ; common all over (Muktinath monastery to Pokara)

Orange-headed Thrush ; one Queens Forest Pokhara (citrina)

Scaly Thrush ; 8 birds seen in Deurali area

White-collared Blackbird ; several Kalopani and common in Ghorapani-Deurali area

Grey-winged Blackbird ; few near Sikha and fairly common near Chitre

Dark-throated Thrush ; one near Sikha and one on mountain above Deurali, both atrogularis

White-browed Shortwing ; male Poon Hill and several males and 1 female Deurali area

Dark-sided Flycatcher ; one Ghorepani, one Deurali

Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher ; fairly common above Ghasa, Deurali etc.

Ultramarine Flycatcher ; fairly common, Kalopani, Chitre, Ghorapani area

Slaty-blue Flycatcher ; female near Kokethanti, female Ghorepani

Verditer Flycatcher ; fairly common

Small Niltava ; male Sikha to Chitre

Rufous-bellied Niltava ; male and female above Ghasa, male below Tarapani (Tadapani)

Blue-throated Flycatcher ; male near Sikha

Indian Blue Robin ; common Kalopani, Chitre, Ghorapani, Deurali…

Orange-flanked Bush Robin ; 2 birds only, Deurali ridge trail

Golden Bush Robin ; small numbers Deurali area

xWhite-browed Bush Robin ; 2 males and a female Deurali area

Oriental Magpie Robin ; Pokhara

Black Redstart ; few Jomsom and up

Blue-fronted Redstart ; few Muktinath and mountain above Deurali

White-capped Water Redstart ; pair Muktinath monastery and fairly common along rivers and

                                          streams lower down

Plumbeous Water Redstart ; common along rivers

Little Forktail ; 3 birds Deurali to Tarapani.

Siberian Stonechat ; pair near Khingar, Kalopani, Ghandrung…

Grey Bushchat ; common

Chestnut-tailed Starling ; Sikha and Pokhara

Common Myna

Jungle Myna

White-tailed Nuthatch ; Kalopani, Chitre, Deurali

Eurasian Treecreeper ; one Deurali

Rusty-flanked Treecreeper ; fairly common Deurali area

Rufous-vented Tit ; Ghorapani and Deurali area

Grey-crested Tit ; fairly common Ghorapani and Deurali area

Great Tit ; Birethanti and Pokhara

Green-backed Tit ; fairly common on trekking

Black-lored Tit ; Tatopani and Pokhara

Yellow-browed Tit ; few Chitre

Black-throated Tit ; 2 groups Kalopani

Plain Martin ; 2 birds Pokhara lake

Eurasian Crag Martin ; encountered few times on the trek

Barn Swallow ; very few on trek, few in Pokhara area

Red-rumped Swallow ; few Pokhara

Asian House Martin ; few Khingar

Nepal House Martin ; several groups Deurali to Birethanti

Himalayan Bulbul ; Ghasa, Dana, Ghandrung, Sikha-Chitre, Peace Pagoda Pokhara

Red-vented Bulbul ; Sikha, Pokhara

Mountain Bulbul ; Nagarjung forest Kathmandu

Black Bulbul ; common

Striated Prinia ; common Ghasa

Oriental White-eye ; fairly common

Chestnut-headed Tesia ; 1 near Chitre, 2 Deurali area

Slaty-bellied Tesia ; 1 Ghasa

Aberrant Bush Warbler ; several Poon Hill

Grey-sided Bush Warbler ; common Poon Hill and Deurali area

Blyth’s Reed Warbler ; 1 near Ghasa village

Common Tailorbird

Tickell’s Leaf Warbler ; Jomsom and Marpha

Buff-barred Warbler ; Ghorapani

Ashy-throated Warbler ; common

Lemon (Pale)-rumped Warbler ; Kalopani

Hume’s Warbler ; Ghorapani

Greenish Warbler ; fairly common

Western Crowned Warbler ; 1 seen very well (incl. diagnostic habit of flicking one wing)

                                     Ghorapani, 1 near Deurali

Blyth’s Leaf Warbler ; few Kalopani, Deurali

Whistler’s Warbler ; common

Grey-hooded Warbler ; Chitre and Nagarjung

Chestnut-crowned Warbler ; Chitre

White-throated Laughingthrush ; Chitre, below Deurali, Tarapani to Ghandrung

White-crested Laughingthrush ; Queens Forest Pokhara and Nagarjung Kathmandu

Striated Laughingthrush ; Kalopani and near Banthanti

Spotted Laughingthrush ; fairly common Deurali area

Streaked Laughingthrush ; Chitre and near Banthanti

xScaly Laughingthrush ; small parties seen several times Deurali area, few Poon Hill

Variegated Laughingthrush ; Khingar and Jharkot

Black-faced Laughingthrush ; common Poon Hill to Deurali

Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush ; only one near Deurali

Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler ; hear Poon Hill

xScaly-breasted Wren Babbler ; white morph seen three times Deurali area, at altitudes of

          3000, 2700,2600m, one bird observed for 15! minutes.

xNepal Wren Babbler ; a pair of the fulvous morph observed for 10 min. from room 19,

          Tukuche Peak View Hotel, which was a perfect hide.  Birds were gathering

          nesting material.

xSpiny Babbler ; 2 birds in scrub at the hill top viewpoint near the World Peace Pagoda,

          Pokhara (where trail through Queens forest opens up out of forest), birds showed

          very well and 1 was singing for a moment too.  One bird with white throat and breast,

          and one with buff.  No tape was needed.  It’s a small area of scrub on the hilltop and

          easy to find.

          I had no intensions of trying again to see this species at the usual site at Godaveri

          Botanical Garden (Kathmandu) as I never expected to find it there, it’s a difficult site

          with no exact locations available.  So, these birds at this new location were a very

          welcome surprise.

Red-billed Leiothrix ; only seen in Ghasa

xGreen Shrike Babbler ; one Deurali

Hoary-throated Barwing ; few Deurali area

Blue-winged Minla ; one Chitra to Ghorapani

Chestnut-tailed Minla ; common Ghorapani – Deurali – Chitre

Rufous-winged Fulvetta ; seen several times Chitre and Deurali area

White-browed Fulvetta ; Poon Hill and Deurali

Whiskered Yuhina ; Chitre

Stripe-throated Yuhina ; very common Deurali ridge trail

Rufous-vented Yuhina ; common Deurali area

White-bellied Yuhina ; 1 Nagarjung forest reserve Kathmandu

Rufous Sibia ; Ghasa, Chitre, etc.

xGreat Parrotbill ; one Poon Hill, 3 times one bird seen Deurali area

xBrown Parrotbill ; several groups seen Deurali ridge trail and trail above Deurali

xFulvous Parrotbill ; one group of 4 birds Deurali ridge trail

Black-throated Parrotbill ; group of approx. 10 birds Deurali ridge trail

Hume’s Short-toed Lark ; one in stony river flat at Larjung

Oriental Skylark ; several above Kagbeni performing song flights

Fire-breasted Flowerpecker ; Sikha – Chitre

Purple Sunbird ; one male near Dana

Mrs Gould’s Sunbird ; Kalopani to Ghasa, Deurali area

Green-tailed Sunbird ; Ghorapani

Black-throated Sunbird ; Ghasa

Fire-tailed Sunbird ; male above Black Forest Ghasa, male on mountain above Deurali

House Sparrow ; Pokhara

xRusset Sparrow ; few Ghasa, common Sikha to Ghorapani (no Tree Sparrows here), several Ghandrung

Eurasian Tree Sparrow ; common

White Wagtail

White-browed Wagtail ; few Jomsom to Tukuche

Citrine Wagtail ; one Jomsom to Tukuche and one Birethanti

Grey Wagtail

xUpland Pipit ; one seen Kimche, incl. song flights

Olive-backed Pipit ; fairly common

Rosy Pipit ; common higher elevations

xRobin Accentor ; one Kimche, fairly common Muktinath

Rufous-breasted Accentor ; one Muktinath

Scaly-breasted Munia ; near Tatopani

Fire-fronted Serin ; few between Jomsom and Kagbeni

Yellow-breasted Greenfinch ; several Ghandrung

Red Crossbill ; Ghorapani

Dark-breasted Rosefinch ; Deurali area incl. males

Common Rosefinch ; common Ghasa village

Beautiful Rosefinch ; Muktinath incl. males

Pink-browed Rosefinch ; fairly common Ghasa incl. males seen

Spot-winged Rosefinch ; one female Deurali ridge trail

xStreaked Rosefinch ; 3 females Khingar, one female and a male! Jharkot

xBlanford’s Rosefinch ; 2 females seen at 3400m on tree-line on trail up mountain beyond

                                   Deurali (Blood Pheasant spot), face of birds white with pollen.

xBrown Bullfinch ; 2 birds Kalopani

Collared Grosbeak ; few above Black Forest Ghasa and common Deurali area

Spot-winged Grosbeak ; few near Ghasa village

Gold-naped Finch ; male and female on trail above Deurali

Crested Bunting ; near Tatopani, Sikha and Ghandrung

Rock Bunting ; several times seen from Jomsom up


           At the World Peace Pagoda, Pokhara, minutes after seeing Spiny Babbler. Here with Kagbeni in the background.



Pika above Muktinath

4 Goral Ghasa east slopes, 3 Goral Ghasa west slopes, 2 Goral high above Larjung

2 Yellow-throated Marten near Deurali

Hanuman Langurs, Ghasa and Deurali

Barking Deer, pair with young ridge trail Deurali

Jackal between Kagbeni and Khingar



Rhododendrons had finished flowering except on the mountain beyond Deurali, it’s higher up and facing north there.

Otherwise no or little flowers to see.  Over-grassing?  After having trekked in October I had expected to see flowers now!  Disappointed.  Go to Alps.

Numerous beautiful butterflies made up for it however, even at higher altitude.



Stijn De Win / has published this information page on 2 September 2009.



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